Fireworks light up the sky over Miyajima

Continued from Part 1.

Having finally achieved the summit of Mt. Misen, Miyajima Island’s tallest peak, I decided to hurry back down to the beach so that I could secure a good spot from which to photograph the fireworks.

Major holiday events are serious business for the Japanese. Regardless of whether it’s for the nation’s largest fireworks show or just for hanami (flower viewing, especially during sakura season) at the local park, they come early, they come prepared, and they come in full force. Almost as soon as the sun comes up, every available spot with a good view becomes blanketed with blue tarps and picnic baskets. Groups of festival goers sit around drinking, chatting, and playing games while also keeping a close eye out to ensure that no one encroaches too closely on their carefully chosen viewing location. Arrive a mere two or three hours ahead of time, and you’ll be lucky if you can still find a place to sit!

Last year I went with some Japanese friends to see the big hanabi taikai (fireworks festival) at Showa Park in Tokyo. Through a series of unexpected delays, we ended up arriving a mere two hours prior to the event, and this is the sight that greeted us when we showed up…

That’s right. There was absolutely nowhere left to sit down. In the end, the only spot we could find was one way in the back where the view was partially obscured by trees.

Fortunately for me, the Miyajima festival location offers one major saving grace. The best place to watch the show from happens to be the beach area directly in front of the giant torii. Most of the time it’s underwater; only during low tide does the area become accessible. This provides a nice natural restriction on how early people can begin to stake out their spots.

The “floating” shrine, Itsukushimajinja. Not quite so magical at low tide.

Compare this shot to the identical one taken earlier in the day.

The tide was still receding, so I spent some time taking in the festival action and grabbing a few tasty treats from the various food stalls lining the narrow avenues.

I love these Japanese style, two-tier picnic tables. You can still take your shoes off and relax Japanese style even though you’re outdoors.

Delicious takoyaki (octopus puffs), fresh from the fryer

Kakegouri (shaved ice)

Mmm…grilled squid on a stick

It’s actually quite delicious. Tastes like chicken, except kinda rubbery. No seriously.

World’s most awesome squid chef.

This guy was a real pro. He filleted those squid incredibly fast and still was able to have a friendly chat with me. If there’s an Olympic event for squid preparation, then this man is surely the reigning gold medalist.

My favorite! Fresh yakisoba topped with a fried egg!

Ahhhhh, I love festival food. Man, now I’m making myself hungry. How I wish I was back in Japan for Obon again this year!

Once the tide had gone out, the festival goers wasted no time heading out to the beach to stake out some prime real estate.

I managed to grab a nice spot right at the front along with a small army of other photographers.

And just in time, too! The setting sun made for an amazing backdrop

As the sun slowly sank beneath the horizon, young couples strolled about and groups of yukata clad children rushed up to touch the torii gate or hunt for clams in the shallow water.

Simply gorgeous. I can’t recommend Miyajima enough as a tourist destination for anyone traveling through the Hiroshima area.

I had been told that the fireworks display would be amazing, but nothing could have prepared me for the breathtaking spectacle they unleashed over the bay.

Loudspeakers had been set up all around the island, and the hour long show began with a young woman telling the tale of the island’s folklore origins. For hundreds of years Miyajima was considered a sacred place. No one was allowed to be born or to die on the island. The few residents who did call Miyajima home always treated it with the utmost respect. Even today logging and commercial development on the island is strictly prohibited, and the many groups of day tourists still explore it with a touch of awe and reverence.

After the explanation ended, they kicked off the fireworks display with a real bang…and a bit of a surprise. Not only was the coordination of the fireworks show itself impressive, the whole thing was choreographed to music, which echoed hauntingly across the island. The event was broken up into six segments of 10 minutes each, each one set to a difference piece of music. Everything from traditional Japanese music to pumping techno set the mood as the fireworks exploded one after another. It was without a doubt the most amazing pageantry of light and sound I have ever witnessed, putting every other fireworks display to shame.

The grand finale

Absolutely beautiful.

~0rion